Cordillera Blanca Expedition - Tocllaraju Climb (6034)

Name: Ice Climbing in the Cordillera Blanca - Ishinca Valley - Tocllaraju (6034 masl) - Ice Climbing Course - Peru
Start: 2027-06-12
End: 2027-06-19
Location: Huaraz, Peru

Proposal

The most tropical mountain range

There are places in the world that stand out from the rest through sheer beauty. The Cordillera Blanca, located in the center of Peru as part of the great backbone that is the Andes, has earned a special distinction: the tropical mountain range of the Americas. Its mountains keep their slopes and summits snow-covered for much of the time, and many of them have technical faces that call for technical progression on glaciers and ice climbing.

Sweeping landscapes of green meadows, deep valleys, blue lagoons, and white, sheer mountains burst into view in this magical corner of the imposing Cordillera Blanca.

We include a basic Ice Climbing and glacier roping course.

Planned itinerary:

Day 1:. Huaraz (3300 masl): Meeting in the city of Huaraz, after the trip from Lima (can be by bus or light aircraft; ask us). Free acclimatization day getting to know the city. Overnight at a hostel

Day 2: Huaraz, rest day in the city. Hydration and acclimatization. Option of excursions at altitude. Night at the hostel.

Day 3: Huaraz-Base Camp. Vehicle transfer to Pashpa. There our hike begins (donkeys carry the general equipment). In the afternoon we reach base camp, at 4390 masl, where there is a large refuge. Setting up camp, hydration, rest. Dinner and overnight.

Day 4: Full rest day at Base Camp. Short walks, scouting the area, first practice sessions and technical talks on climbing in this type of terrain. Rope-team practice.

Day 5: Load-carrying day to Tocllaraju's high camp, return to Base Camp.

Day 6: Ascent to Tocllaraju's high camp (Morrenas camp), at 5200 masl. We climb slowly to this camp with each person's personal gear. Night in a high-mountain tent.

Day 7: Summit attempt day on Nevado Tocllaraju, 6036 masl. One of the great peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. A long traverse ascent, crossing crevasses, brings us to the final climb, with technical snow and ice climbing sections and rope use. Descent to the high camp and from there to base camp.

Day 8: Descent to Pashpa with pack donkeys. Final transfer to Huaraz (arrival in the late afternoon/evening). Night at the hostel. End of program.

Elevation Profile

Included Services

Permanent guide-coordinator
Group formed from Argentina
3 nights at a hostel in Huaraz.
General climbing equipment (ropes, slings, stakes, screws, carabiners, cords)
Local professional mountain guide and assistant.
All meals on the mountain (from day 3 through day 7)
First aid kit.
Camp equipment, tents and kitchen (stoves, pots)
Donkeys and muleteer; to carry camp equipment and some personal gear up to base camp.
Private transport; Huaraz / Pashpa / Huaraz.
Basic course in rappelling, ice climbing and glacier roping

Services NOT included

Travel to Huaraz (a flight to Lima then bus is recommended). Ask us
Ishinca park entrance fee (20 USD)
Personal equipment
Meals in Huaraz
Expenses caused by dropping out of the program

Note

High-altitude expedition with technical difficulty on the ascents (glacier roping, snow and ice climbing)

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this an expedition for experienced climbers?
Good physical condition, training, and some prior mountain experience are required.

How do you get to the location?
You need to travel to Lima and from there take a bus (6 to 8 hours) to Huaraz, round trip.

What equipment is needed?
High-mountain clothing and footwear + technical equipment (harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe); see the equipment list section (last black button).

Who's a good fit for Cordillera Blanca Expedition - Tocllaraju Climb (6034) - Peru?

Cordillera Blanca Expedition - Tocllaraju Climb (6034) - Peru is an expedition that any adventurer can take on with the right physical preparation, equipment and prior experience con salida desde Huaraz, Peru , in the region International, Argentina. It lasts 8 days. Todos nuestros programas incluyen guías de montaña certificados, logística de expedición y seguro de accidentes personales.

What physical fitness level is required for Cordillera Blanca Expedition - Tocllaraju Climb (6034) - Peru?

Como medir la dificultad de un ascenso o una expedición? es una pregunta que surge a menudo. Para esto desarrollamos un sistema de graduación que ayuda al participante a medir la dificultad, dado a que evaluamos 5 variables sobre la intensidad de cada propuesta.
• The weight of the backpack relative to the length of the day
• The physical demand
• The technical level of the terrain and required equipment
• The degree of mental strength required
• The maximum altitude reached
Hace click el botón y evaluá vos mismo la dificultad ->:

What equipment do I need to take part in the Cordillera Blanca Expedition - Tocllaraju Climb (6034) - Peru?

En cada uno de nuestros programas vas encontrar un apartado de EQUIPO REQUERIDO. contá con nosotros para asesorarte y prepararlo de forma adecuada para maximizar el disfrute de la actividad. Contamos con una tienda de alquiler, para resolver si te falta algo.
Chequealo ahora! ->

What's included in Cordillera Blanca Expedition - Tocllaraju Climb (6034) - Peru?

Permanent guide-coordinator Group formed from Argentina 3 nights at a hostel in Huaraz. General climbing equipment (ropes, slings, stakes, screws, carabiners, cords) Local professional mountain guide and assistant. All meals on the mountain (from day 3 through day 7) First aid kit. Camp equipment, tents and kitchen (stoves, pots) Donkeys and muleteer; to carry camp equipment and some personal gear up to base camp. Private transport; Huaraz / Pashpa / Huaraz. Basic course in rappelling, ice climbing and glacier roping

What happens if the trip is suspended due to bad weather or other force majeure?

At AEX, the safety of our travelers and guides comes first. Activities are only suspended or modified when weather, political or geographic conditions put the expedition at risk. The decision rests exclusively with the guide team and technical direction, based on official reports (National Weather Service, National Parks or local authorities).

If the trip is suspended, do I lose what I paid?

No. The amount paid becomes a Credit in your favor (Weather Voucher) valid for 18 months from the suspended date: up to 6 months to choose a new date plus 12 months to take part. You can use it for the same expedition or any of our other destinations and experiences, and if you cannot use it within that period you can transfer it to someone else.

Difficulty Graduation System

Click on each indicator to see details

60%

Backpack (M)

Backpack: Weight / Duration of the Day.

Clic para detalles

100%

Physical (F)

Physical demand

Clic para detalles

80%

Technical (T)

Technician: Difficulty in the Field / Equipment.

Clic para detalles

80%

Psycho (P)

Psychological Strength

Clic para detalles

100%

Height (A)

Height Exposure

Clic para detalles

How to interpret these values?

Each aspect is evaluated from 20% to 100%, where:

20-40%: Basic or beginner level
60%: Intermediate level
80-100%: Advanced or expert level

Only for experienced adventurers

This adventure requires advanced experience and excellent physical condition.

Required equipment

GENERAL EQUIPMENT

•   Trekking backpack (70 to 90 liters)
•   Duffel bag for the mules/donkeys to carry (60 to 90 liters).
•   Warm sleeping bag (–15 degrees comfort rating, e.g. 1000g of down or good synthetic fill).
•   Insulating sleeping pad (10 to 15mm).
•   Inflatable insulating pad (optional)

FEET

• 1 pair of high-altitude mountaineering boots (double synthetic or plastic boots)
• 1 pair of lightweight trekking shoes.

• changes of underwear.
• Cotton t-shirts (for camp and for sleeping)

FIRST LAYER (Base layer)

• Short-sleeve synthetic shirts/t-shirts
•   Long-sleeve synthetic shirts
•   Polypropylene or similar pants/leggings (not cotton). To wear as inner layer under warm clothing
•   Thin polypropylene or similar gloves (not cotton)
•   Polypropylene or similar balaclava (not cotton)
• Pairs of thin polypropylene or similar socks (not cotton), in contact with skin.
•   Buff-style neck gaiter.

SECOND LAYER (Insulation)

• Pairs of trekking socks (synthetic-thermal)
• Pairs of thick mountain socks
•   Some cotton or wool socks (wool is good for sleeping)
•   2 pairs of long trekking pants
•   Shorts/leggings
• 2 warm layers (fleece jacket, or wool pullover, 100-weight or 200-weight fleece jacket)
•   Down jacket
•   Fleece gloves (fingered or mittens)
•   Warm hat (fleece)
•   Sun hat (with flaps)
•   Fleece neck gaiter or scarf (for the throat)

THIRD LAYER (Windproof and waterproof)

•   Waterproof jacket (ultrex or gore-tex or similar)
•   Rain/wind pants (gore-tex or similar, or ski-type)
•   Third-layer gloves or mittens (waterproof and breathable)
•   Ski gloves (as backup)
•   Mountaineering gaiters

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

Crampons (rental available)
1 pair of technical ice axes (rental available)
1 harness with a self-belay sling and 3 locking carabiners + 2 6mm x 3m cordelettes (rental available)
1 climbing helmet
Trekking poles

PERSONAL ITEMS

•   Passport, national ID card.
•   Health/medical insurance.
•   Completed medical and personal form, authorization.

MISCELLANEOUS
• Headlamp with batteries (plus 2 spare batteries).
• Sturdy plastic bags to store clothing.

HEALTH & HYGIENE
•   Sunglasses with Category 4 UV protection
•   Spare glasses (goggles work too, highly recommended)
•   Personal first-aid kit (medication with the relevant prescription).
•   High-SPF sunscreen, lip balm
•   Soap, shampoo (small, to share) and a small towel.
•   Other
•   Toilet paper. Tissues. Baby wipes.

KITCHEN
•   Water containers, at least 2 liters (can be a plastic bottle), Camelback, Nalgene or similar
•   Small thermos
•   Personal tableware: Plate, cup/mug, cutlery

OPTIONAL, not mandatory (space and weight permitting)

•   SILVER TAPE, for blisters and repairs.
•   Mate, bombilla straw and yerba.
•   Steel thermos.
•   Water purification tablets.
•   Mini sewing kit.
•   Binoculars, monocular. Camera or video equipment.
•   Book, notebook, travel journal, pencil, pen.

Rental Equipment

Available

Trekking sleeping bag

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Available

Pair of Trekking Poles

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Available

Rental mittens

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Available

Pair of Crampons

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Climbing II - helmet, crampons and pickaxe

Available

Rental : helmet, crampons and ice ax

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Climbing Combo I - helmet, crampons, pickaxe, harness, carabiners, plate, straps, cords

Available

Combo Top: helmet, crampons, ice ax and full harness

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Available

Category 3 sunglasses - Shepra Julbo Spectrom

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Available

Backpack for trekking and mountaineering - Woman

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4.8

147 Google reviews

Luciana Durante

Fui a Tres Picos con Mati y Fer de AEX. Todo sucedió como estaba organizado. Tanto los guías como Euge estuvieron disponibles desde el día 1 de la reserva para evacuar todas nuestras dudas y llegar de la mejor manera al trekking. Súper recomendable viajar con AEX.

Mariano Marchioni

Excelente servicio de principio a fin, te ayudan y acompañan en todo el proceso de preparación para tu salida y tienen los mejores guías, por servicio y calidad humana

Guillermina Augustu

Tilcara Calilegua es la travesía mas hermosa que hice, tiene unos paisajes maravillosos . La inmensidad en la montaña es increible. Pero lo que realmente lo hizo mágico fueron los lugares donde nos hospedamos, los compañeros de montaña y el amor y el cuidado de los guías. Euge y Gus estuvieron en cada detalle, pendiente de cada uno de nosotros, realemente ellos fueron el viaje. La comida increible. Agradecida eternamente con ambos..