Bike Fitting is the process of adapting the bicycle to the cyclist, through biomechanical analysis. As we know, bicycles come assembled from the factory with standard components which, while designed to work best for the average user, are far from optimal for each individual case. Another factor to keep in mind is that if we change one of the variables (Cyclist or bicycle) we need to redo this fitting process. Bike fitting helps us reduce injuries, muscle strains, joint pain, and improves comfort. It also gets us the maximum efficiency out of our pedaling.
Attention! If you regularly feel discomfort or muscle fatigue in specific areas, you may urgently need to adapt your bicycle to your needs, and the best way to do that is by consulting a specialized center, which you should visit with your bicycle.
Either way, I'll give you some basic tips on how to adjust your saddle height and how to set up your cleats. If you want more precise measurements, below I'll leave you a link so you can get your bike nearly perfect, all from the comfort of home!
To correctly adjust the saddle we need to keep two factors in mind:
1 - Saddle height: The standard measurement for determining the correct saddle height is 88% of your inseam (measured to the floor). To take your inseam measurement, do the following: stand with your back against a wall, barefoot, with your legs together, and place a book or ruler up against your crotch, then measure from the highest point of the object down to the floor.
So: inseam measurement x 0.88 = saddle height. The height is calculated from the center of the bottom bracket axle (the pedal axle) to the top of the saddle, following the line of the frame's seat tube and seatpost. Keep in mind that if your saddle is very cushioned, you'll need to subtract the amount it compresses when you sit on it.
2 - Longitudinal saddle adjustment: To start, the saddle should always be in a horizontal position, parallel to the ground; you can check and correct this with a level (or the app I recommend below). After leveling the saddle, get on the bike and set the pedals at the same height (using a wall or chair for support). The knee of your forward leg should line up with the end of the crank arm. To picture this more clearly, you can hang a string with a small weight from the knee and see where it falls relative to the end of the crank arm. If it falls in front, the saddle needs to move back; if it falls behind, the solution is to move it forward.
This is the app I recommend for adjusting the saddle's horizontal position; it's available for both Android and iOS and is completely free:
CLICK HERE for the Android version
CLICK HERE for the iOS version
Note: It's very important to keep in mind that one adjustment can affect the other, and vice versa. Because of this, you'll need to check your measurements more than once.
First of all, it's important to note that you should adjust the cleats on each foot individually — you can't set them up on one foot and just apply the same measurements to the other.
Now, the best way to do it is with your shoes on, standing on the ground with your foot straight. By feel, locate the first metatarsal (better known as the bunion) and place a small piece of adhesive tape on the shoe to mark it more precisely. Do the same with the fifth metatarsal (the one for your little toe).
Once you've done this, it's time to take the shoes off. Looking at the sole, use a piece of string to connect the two marked points. Where that string crosses the centerline of the sole is the optimal spot to place the center of the cleat. This position is called the “new neutral position.”
NOTE: make changes gradually and never try anything new right before a trip or competition.
If you want to do a more precise at-home fitting of your bike, I recommend you CLICK HERE
